Themes that I have come up with are
- The Aufheben of Baroque architecture and rectangle shapes in fashion
- The End of Spirit, psychoanalysis of self-identity
I cannot be confident to start the project with either of them. The first one is too much complicated and do not really make any sense. The second idea is interesting for me to explore, but obscure about what I begin researching with. Although I have a statement that I want to visualize, I have no idea what it would be like.
Thanks to the tutorial, I kind of sorted out the second concept better and now I have three pathways of development. I think the pathway about self identity is the closest idea to what I want to visualize.
[About the concept, The End of Spirit]
The initial title is the End of Spirit. This is about the lost of our Ego identity (not Identity) in 2018. Ego identity is called Spirit in my project and regarded as a positive definition of yourself. For example, today, when Materialism is extremely overwhelming human’s ideology, what we believe is not necessarily what we believe. The reason you took a specific action is high potentially attributed to the context behind your existence, not your spirit. When it is so, can you believe that there is your spirit inside your body ? That would be my question.
Gallery and Museum Visit
- Clarendon Fine Art (Gallery)
- Richard Saltoun Gallery; AKTION:CONCEPTUAL ART & PHOTOGRAPHY (1960-1980]
- Tate Modern; Public, Private Secret (Talk)
I visited some galleries in Green Park in the morning. I am a little happy that I encountered a few works which might be relating (or I might be able to relate them) to my project. →Research File
The talk in Tate Modern was helpful for me to understand more about the transition of configuration of Identity these days. I felt it is interesting thoughts that Selfie is changing the notion of Identity and that Self is no longer private and it is the era of "Devidual”. I think this idea would be a part of my visualization.
- Section 4 (First action plan) should be more concrete
- The concept is general, so narrow down the target (ex: Influencers vs Followers)
- It might be useful way to do “Chapter 1”
I agree with the opinion that the concept is too big to complete within 5 weeks more. I should choose a specific situation or group. Now I am thinking about to focus on Fashion tendencies (community, movement, hashtag...) on Instagram. I maintain that Self-actualization for ordinary followers of fashion influencers is now duplication of such influencers. And Fast Fashion brands are interfering their process by providing them with cheaper fashionable clothes which are basically copying expensive clothes that influencers can afford. Now I can connect mass consumption of clothing to configuration of the self for these followers.
Action Plan for tomorrow is
- Figure out the fashion tendency of fashion on Instagram. (Hashtags ?)
- Visualize the process of Self-actualization linking to fast fashion.
Contextual Practice today was to sort out the contents of the project. The practice allowed me to see if the project is well balanced, which means wether or not I am taking inspiration widely and the project theme contains political or cultural interests that are somehow relating to my discipline. I think my project is wide ranged enough, which I am happy about, according to the practice sheet. However, indeed this practice was quite helpful to understand the project contents precisely , I am a bit worried about the idea of final outcome, because it did not give me ideas about practical works afterwards. I know it is fine not to have a specific idea of final outcome, but I am just a little anxious about that.
Absent the lesson
[Model Making Workshop]
I joined Model Making workshop in the morning. The purpose was to inspire myself by making some samples which are relating to my project theme. And I expected it was helping to do experiments in Stitch workshop afterwords. However, I am not happy with the works I have done. None of them were reflecting the concept well, because my design was just piles of faces, one of representation of the Self, which was inspired by She observed her reflection in the glass (Research File). I won’t use the works for the project.
I have got the idea to stitch three garments together, inspired by Louis Vuitton Spring 2019 Men. It has three versions to wear and I recorded how they work on an actual body. I like that it presented different casualties, depending on a top wear.
- Viscount Tartan (fabric)
- Jeans Black (fabric)
- Polyestr Cottton White (fabric)
Material analysis made me realized how I usually approach materials. For instance, in terms of fabric, apparently I tend to take texture seriously more than slight difference of colour. And I used to ignore industrial use or social values of materials. Not only about historical and cultural context, but also I would like to be aware of other contexts such as sustainability, typical method and/or people’s perceptions of materials.
- Design development; 5 different outfits based on the draping last time
- Refer to brands logos, patterns, catch copy for own statement
[One day Workshop]
Beforehand the workshop, I have decided to make some collars and cuffs.
Workshop was quite intense and I did not have enough time to develop the design after making the maquette. I think I was able to have a new idea for a possible designs of a final outcome, thanks to draping today. However, I felt the necessity to research a fashion designer who used similar ideas, collars and cuffs.
As for designs, I think it is a bit too much. Or maybe the tartan shirts and the white shirts are not harmonizing well. I would like to re-think about patterns on the garments from the aesthetical point of view.
- Experimentation of fabric printing
- Design development; 5 deifferent ideas
[Developing the theme]
The main job today was to specify the theme more. The initial theme about psychoanalysis was too general to move to fashion design development. So I have chosen the fashion context about that, which is about the fact that the approval of representing your identity or ego through clothing encourage mass consumption of fast fashion clothing. What I want to visualize is the lost of Ego within the unconscious purchases of a new piece of clothes. It’s a kind of a contradiction that a person is being a part of a cluster by buying clothes only for establishing her/his own individual identity.
The key words in my project would be
- The unconscious/ unconscious irrational desire/ unconscious consumption (purchase)
- The identity/ The Ego/ The Self/ Norm-core / cluster/ groupism/ individualism
- Group Dynamics/ Psychoanalysis/ Propaganda/ Advertisement
(The Century of The Self, Adam Curtis, 2002)
26.07.18 Thu (Absent)
I was absent the lesson because I was ill. And so I didn’t work at all.
Today, I have been concentrating to write the project brief. I agree with that writing proposal is quite useful way to sort out and understand what you are thinking. Especially my theme can possibly become really complex, therefore to avoid that, writing proposal is necessary. In short, proposal is a kind of outline including its criteria.
I was struggled to clarify and define some words. For example, I had to define the word “clusters” more specifically, because the project shouldn’t be general and impossible question for to have an answer. Apart from that I think I should be also specific in terms of the time table, but I had no idea to predict specific tasks, although they are depending on a cease by case.
Following the action plan, I analyzed a specific relationship between fashion and configuration of identity on Instagram. I found that, in Japan, there are a lot of people who are posting their outfits or styling with the hashtag “お洒落さんと繋がりたい”, which means “I would love to get in touch with fashionable people”. This indicates that those people are willing to identify themselves in such a community, in which people are gathered through the hashtag. According to the article, cited from Mass Consumption and Personal Identity (Research File), every day affairs are very important as the context behind the establishment of identity. The attitudes of such people towards fashion are complexly involved in the unconscious purchases of clothing.
Fast Fashion for those people -mentioned in Research File
I thought it was interesting to focus on the tenidency that the majority of those people, Instagram followers who cannot afford expensive clothes for entire outfits, are enthusiastic to perform as well as high fashion with cheaper clothes. Their willingness of pursuits of high esteemed fashion.
I was struggled to take a first action, because the theme is about a kind of psychological effects and that made me confuse about the starting point. I took too much time only to analyze and understand the contexts, although it is very important. As Aleistair said to me, the concept would be stronger when it is physically visualized and presented through tangible medium. To get out of the desert, I played with some garments on a body and tried to get ideas to develop further. The inspiration was Louis Vuitton Spring 2019 Men (Research File), because this collection was taking casualty into High Fashion, which means that I found a coincidence to the project focus. I think I will develop ideas with the impact “Every day Fashion → High Fashion”
I did draping with some shirts. When I was trying develop the works yesterday, I came up with the idea to use multiple garments to make one top-wear. It is also corresponding to one of the biggest aspect in my project, mass consumption of clothing. To emphasize meaningless purchases of fashion, I designed a top wear which is wasting functional elements of their design. Putting colour choice aside, I prefer this oversized silhouette made of two shirts. I would like to develop designs further from this. However, I do not like that one of the sleeves on each shirts is not working as the detail of the design. It does not look good, being just draped. I think it should be got rid of, or transformed.
I developed designs from the draping I have done. The idea is multiple shirts on a body to express ignoring the necessity of clothing.
i liked to have two shirts to make one top wear. It looks really stupid and the stupidity, I felt, showed the unnecessary mass consumption of clothes. I wondered if the design gives audiences the uncomfortable feeling to have multiple shirts, which I want to visualize.
Action Plan for one day workshop tomorrow
- Think about the designs or samples to make tomorrow
[Tutorial] with Chris
The tutorial today changed my pathway. Chris and I both agreed to do Installation as a final outcome. It would be better to emphasize my statement, rather than to have a normal fashion collection. To reinforce my works, I need the aspects of textile WASTE in UK and material development with that, because my development with previous draping didn’t show my concept of mass consumption very well.
Although I made sure what is necessary, the tutorial made me a bit confused. I felt the risk to make my project complicated. And the previous works seem not to help further development that much, because it is too much about details to prepare for designing the collection. I would like to have something extreme to show my statement if it is Installation.
Working Process exhibition by Nick Waplington is really inspiring for me. I think photography of the process I waste garments to make a final piece will possibly be presented as a part of the Installation. They will be really personal and would be stronger impact.
- Research a suitable fact to start draping and designing
- See “Primark Effect”
- Develop ideas with inspiration of Working Process by Nick Waplington